Andean New Year

For the Winter Soltice there is another Bolivian National Holiday. Andean New Year is celebrated by greeting the sun as it rises on the first day after the winter soltice. It is celebrated in many different locations. The most famous in Bolivia would be at Tiwanaku located in the altiplano outside of La Paz. The president usually goes there. His inauguration was held at Tiwanaku.



Here in Cochabamba the famous location is the ruins of Incarakay located outside of the town of Sipe Sipe. Pictured on the right on an ordinary day. People go to mountain tops usually the night before, or arrive just before the sunrise. Hands are raised to greet the sun, various blessings and celebrations take place which change from location to location.

Corpus Christi

The Feast of Corpus Christi falls on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday. In the US the feast is celebrated the Sunday following Trinity Sunday, and is a Holy Day of Obligation. In the predominantly Catholic country of Bolivia it is a National Holiday. Schools, institions, government offices all close, but there is no rest for the taxi and bus drivers. Street vendors multiply hoping to making some extra money. Tradition calls for buying fruit, peanuts, and special baked goods. Prices rise in the days leading to the feast.



I wanted to be in two places at once, in the city at the Cathedral (above photo) for mass and procession, and also in Sacaba for the mass and procession too. I had not been to Corpus Christi in Sacaba in almost 10 years and I had promised folks I would come for the feast. I was hoping also, to hear the ringing of the bells in Sacaba, but that would not come to pass on this day.



Starting about 4 or 5 in the morning, various groups of youth came to decorate the street for the procession that will follow the mass. This is a tradition in the larger cities in Bolivia. The youth mark out designs in chalk on the street and fill in sections with flower petals, leaves, colored sawdust or sand to create "alfombras" or carpets where the procession will pass. For those familar with Buddhist Mandalas it is similar, not as detailed or intricate, because it make take just 3 hours, not 3 days, or 3 months or 3 years. I believe too the mandalas are more ritualistic and prayerful. The making of alfombras is more celebratory to use in the ritual of procession. This view shows the block and a half leading to the Cathedral obscured by many people checking out the alfombras.








Students / youth putting finishing details on one of the carpets.









Another group works to complete one of the over 30 alfombras. They range in size from 8' X 12' to 16' X 40'. Like mandalas they are temporary, by the time the procession finishes the images are pretty much trampled.





One group just finished their task and posed for a photo. There were many people roaming around with cameras, a journalist field day!










Details of one of the alfombras. Two years earlier as part of the procession, and towards the end of it, I was only able to view the ruins of the artwork. I was happy to be able to see them all before the procession.








View of San Pedro de Sacaba through the main plaza.



The gazebo was decorated for the final altar, so it normally doesn't have curtains! I arrived at the church 15 minutes before mass to find it packed, with few seats available. My experience with mass is that only 1/2 the people arrive at mass on time, (about 1/4 during or after the homily). Usually only 10-20% partake in Holy Communion, for the feast well over 70% went to Communion.






The procession left after mass, with the family that sponsored the churches decorations, taking roles in the procession. Four staff bearers carry the Baldachin (the noble canopy) over the celebrant carrying the Monstrance, he should be the only one under the Baldachin. This family could have used practice, as the Baldachin sagged throughout the procession. There is a precise form to the procession, with candle bearers, cross bearer, bible bearer, incense bearer, and also in Bolivia someone who throws rose petals. This year the procession seemed (sadly) to get muddled because of the happily large attendance.





Sacaba tradition places young children dressed as angels before the procession leading the way. My first Corpus Christi in Bolivia, 6 boys from my Daycare Center led the procession with not more than a 1/2 a dozen others.





This year there were dozens of children and babies, many of the boys carrying little satin pillows with grapes attached. The girls carrying baskets with flower petals to scatter along the way.














At each corner of the main plaza where the church is situated, a family or group of people sets up an altar. This year one group was actually one of the Sacaba taxi companies. At each corner the celebrant places the Monstrance on the altar, he leads songs, payers and adoration.






After the final altar and the Monstrance is returned to the church, the pastor, priest and deacon all blessed the people with holy water. This is a tradition following most every mass here, unlike the US where the Holy Water is available for individuals to bless themselves when leaving (or entering) church. Here you would be hard pressed to find a Holy Water fount with water available for use. Flowers were dipped into the Holy Water and mostly sprinkled on the people, this day I would say the people were liberally doused. Father Richard (pictured below) who is now the pastor at San Pedro and his colleagues created a festive ending, bringing to mind Carnival and it's water antics!