Sapanani

My first weeks in mission in 2010, I checked out a variety of of ministry possibilities. I went on a Saturday with the Foundation of San Lucas to the community of Sapanani, in the mountains north of Cochabamba Valley. At 5:00 PM on Friday evening I got a call to go up to the community for the weekend. Pretty short notice and considering I had other plans I agreed to only go for all day Saturday.

I went in a San Lucas vehicle with a group of workers to attend a workshop for rural medical educators, technicians and community organizers. We switch backed up the mountains and over the mountain pass to cross over to high mountain valleys. There were various talks and workshops. The health workers came from even more remote rural areas, some of them needing to to walk hours to reach their out-reaching communities. The people not only learned but shared and problem resolved with each other, it was great to see people working together.
I found out that I was there not to observe but to participate, which was difficult at times because Quechua was spoken frequently. I also quickly realized that I wished I had had my camera. A new friend took a photo of a particularly picturesque vista, saying he would email me the photo. I never saw the photo or him again.

Interestingly he had attended the Franciscan University in Carmen Pampa and knew former missioners Peggy and Alexandra! A huge lunch was prepared and after we wandered up the street to "the town" and I hung out with some of the local women, who were all very nice. It was a good experience, but with in a week I found that I would settle full time into my work with the parish of San Carlos, that I had begun part time that week.
I really liked the setting of Sapanani,though I must say that the high altitude and the heart stopping mountain road would make me think twice about working there. I also discovered a Rhubarb patch that was planted years ago by some foreigners. No one locally knew how to prepare it, so I was invited to take some home. Ah Rhubarb pie... yum!

Over the next years I knew many doctors who worked at the Franciscan Social Center in the San Lucas clinic, who would take turns working at the post in Sapanani and supporting the medical wrokers in the outlying region. Dr Claudio brought me a batch of Rhubarb once.
My boss Pepe had been inviting various times during this year to give workshops up in Sapanani on the topics of addictions and drugs. Finally in his last week before heading out on vacation, it was actually scheduled. He invited me to come along and I jumped at the chance to visit this beautiful place again. Even though it was technically winter it was still beautiful.
I had forgotten how treacherous the road was, large verticle drops without guard rails had me clutching the seat. I had to ask our speeding driver Don Carlos, the admistrator of San Lucas to slow down. I even`promised dinner if he did. On the way back he pointed out the sights were people who had driven off the road had died, comforting thoughts.
This time I, of course, took pictures. I was surprised that such an isolated rural community could have problems with drugs and addictions (other than alcohol). The groups was very animated and had lots of questions, they certainly wanted to learn even more and asked for other resources. They did have problems in the school and community, they shared stories and looked for solutions. I could write pages but one of the main themes was Prevention, Education and Intervention. The most interesting fact was that violence is the primary factor that leads to substance abuse, granted it isn't the only one just the primary one.

Below is a local youth, Don Carlos, Pepe, and myself in the garden not far from the Rhubarb patch. Of course I made another pie after the trip.

Fiesta de La Virgen del Carmen

(procession Molino Blanco)


The traditional feast of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in Latin America is celebrated on July 16th. Our Lady of Mount Carmel if the patroness of the Carmelite Order, the first of whom were Christian hermits living on Mt Carmel in the Holy Land in the late 12th - mid 13th century.

Nuestra Señora del Monte Carmelo is the patrona de la nación & sus fuerzas armadas in Bolivia. There seems to be a plethora of churches and chapels named for Nuestra Señora del Carmen here in Bolivia. Each celebrates their feast close to the actual feast day. In the parish of San Pedro where I worked my first time in Bolivia, there is not one but two chapels who have choose this patroness, in the parish's vast territory.


(the road between pueblos)



I have fond memories of accompanying Fr. Richard one of my most favorite Bolivian priests to the countryside to celebrate two masses at each of the chapels. Fr. Richard had been in Rome when I returned to Bolivia. He returned this year from Rome to become the pastor of San Pedro. Fr Honny, the former pastor of San Pedro, had been "promoted" to work in the archbishop's office and in 2010 was given a new parish to pastor within the city limits to be closer to work. He is now close enough to walk, though it takes 20 minutes, an improvement to the increasing traffic that created commutes up to 45 minutes long. Interestingly both priests are from the same hometown, though ordained almost a decade apart, are two of a larger group of priests who have origins in the same town.


(approaching Kuluyu)


Upon Fr. Richard's return to Bolivia, I asked if I could accompany him yet again to celebrate the feast. We enjoyed catching up on the ride up the mountain. This year the feast fell on a week day, the first chapel in Molino Blanco had a small mass and procession, deciding to have a larger procession with folk dancing on the following weekend when the children were not in school.

The more remote location the pueblo of Kuluyu is nestled in the mountains north of Sacaba. I know a couple of families that live there and had hoped to see them. One set of parents is working in Argentina this year, and I hope to check on their children, who are being taken care of by the grandparents and aunts.


(procession back to chapel Kuluyu)


Kuluyu celebrated this year with one mass as well as a solemn procession. School was canceled for the day and people held off from working in the fields to join in the festivities. Fr. Richard and I were invited to share in the midday meal prepared by the women of the pueblo. Lorraine who is a former FMS lay missioner ministered to this pueblo and is still fondly remembered. I was asked if I were her sister!!


(Kuluyu)

Día Del Peatón

Pedestrian Day

A usual day in Bolivia includes traffic jams, blockades or marches. When traffic runs it's normal course, pedestrians need to walk with caution. Traffic does not yeild in any situation to pedestrians, not to women with baby strollers, people in wheelchairs or blind people with canes. I have almost been run down many times crossing the street at the intersection, the cars were running through red lights.

Pedestrian Day, the people rule the roads, my first time in Bolivia the city of Cochabamba celebrated this day once a year, currently 3-4 times a year, sneakers take over the street. On a Sunday, from about 7 in the morning until about 5 or 6 at night all motorized vehicles are banned from the streets (except of course police or emergency vehicles) Though in a city of almost a million people, there are few of either of these public service vehicles.




Last year Bolivia began it's first national Pedestrian Day. Cochabamba led the way for more than a decade. The reason behind the day was to have a day free of pollution from cars, trucks and buses. Not only was the environment improved but so too were people educated about the environment.

Bicycles are allowed to pass freely on the streets, each time more bikes are sold and used on this day. There has been a lot of support for this event. I saw a local talk show on the subject, and the callers were very positive and even offered great suggestions for the next one. One person even suggested to increase the frequency to once a month. It seems to be a great family event too, parents walk while their children ride bikes, free from worry of being mowed down by cars. Everyone is very friendly and cheerful, and many soccer games take place all over the city on the streets, taking over blocks.



Street vendors set up shop early on the streets that get the most foot traffic. As I passed through the Cancha (the outdoor streetmarket where people buy their food, and almost everything else), it seemed the vendors were not having a good day because people were out enjoying other parts of the city. I almost had to wake someone up to buy veggies. Many bike repair people set up stations on the street too. Above (photo) is a large repair and air station set up by Public Works of Cochabamba, they give free service, and also free spring water. They are also very, very friendly, especially sitting there all day in the heat!



There are many interesting sights. My favorite this time was this homemade wooden bike, that I ran into on one of the side streets in a nicer neighborhood. It is way heavier than my friend Keith's bamboo bikes.



Don't worry if you get hungry and you are tired of walking, some food will eventually come by your path. Pedaling hamburgers takes on a new meaning for me! Could this be the origin of the phrase? This is not an unusual site I have seen up to a dozen hamburger bikes setting off to cook and sell hamburgers. What is unusual is that is is going down one of the busiest streets near my home.

Below is El Prado, one of the busiest streets here. It has a park strip between the two sets of traffic lanes. Here it is impossible to ride a bike, and one shouldn't even try out of respect for the pedestrians, it really is their day! The scene is one of a big fair, music, crafts, food, games for kids and more.